Excerpt from the Log of Bonanza

Ever wonder what it's like to do a passage? Here's a look at notes from our trip to Dry Tortuga's, Florida from Cayman Islands. This was a trip of 102 hours - approximately 5 and a half days long making over 500 miles in one go.

June 3rd, 11:00

Course 335  Wind 10 knots Seas around two feet - some higher.

N 19 30 08  W 81 22 2

Some cumulus clouds around. Can still see Northwest Point of Grand Cayman

Sailing along with the wind at 10 knots at about 120 degrees off the starboard back quarter. Seas are up slightly - pushing us over now and then...causing the boom to get slack then come up short. Noisy. We also have a tiny squeak at the end of the boom. It sounds like a little mouse every few seconds.  

Down here in the nav station I have the main hatch open, but with the wind coming from behind,  no breeze makes it inside. We have been underway for about two hours and are still mulling our options for this journey. To stop in Cuba and where? Cayo Largo, Cabo San Antonio, neither, both? We'll see how the wind goes. Right now we are sailing straight north towards Cayo Largo.

June 3rd 17:30

Course 350  Wind 10 knots  Seas two to four feet

Position N 20.05  W 81.30 

Sailing in good conditions. We have to sail at least half the trip because we don't have enough fuel to motor at will. With approximately 625 miles to go, our ability to motor is limited to about 400 miles. Meanwhile we also have to charge the batteries using the generator every six hours and this uses diesel as well. So we keep track of the hours charging and the hours motoring. Close track. Roy figured out the squeak in the boom. The outhaul line was too tight and was rubbing on the pulley inside the end of the boom. Now it's way less annoying and probably less hazard less. Friction is never a good thing especially on a long passage.Nothing to see out here on the sea. So far only the blue sea and the blue sky, one tropic bird and a plastic pail. Tiger soup for dinner. Did I mention that it sure is hot?

June 3rd  Midnight

Course 265  Wind 17 knots  Seas two to four feet

Decided to tack to the West. Seems we don't have the current with us as we are only going 4 -4.5 knots. We expected to be whizzing along with a following current by now. West is a good direction though, that tip of Cuba is still a long way over. Ran the generator and took advantage on some air conditioning for an hour. Nice and cool below. Heat lightening around us lighting up the sky to the North and the Big Dipper hanging straight down above. Probably the smoothest night sail we have ever enjoyed. 

June 4th 2:30

Course 274  Wind 12 -24 knots  Seas building

Hardest time of the night for me. Just going to sleep for an hour. We don't do regular shifts until we get really tired. Then we  take turns sleeping for an hour at a time. Watch consists of turning on the radar every half hour to see if there is anything coming. Not complicated. The wind getting gusty up and down from 12 to 25 knots. At least downwind this doesn't matter much. The sail trim remains the same, but at least the speed goes up at bit. Seas coming from behind. Nice and organized and smooth.

June 4th 5:30

Course 275  Wind 15 knots  Seas lumpy

Been light since around 5 am. At least the nights are not as long as they are further South. I got tricked by the moon last night. It snuck out from behind a could and for a second I thought it was a ship coming way to close. Roy laughed when I said holy sh#$t! Didn't you notice that before?" These things happen when you get the delirious sleep deprived brain. Our speed is better now 5-5.5 knots but the seas are not so smooth anymore. Maybe we finally have the current with us.

June 4th 10:00

Position N 20.28  W 82.38

Course 280  Wind 12-15 knots  Seas two to four feet

Reefed main because looming squall lines behind us. Already had two pass over us with 25+ knots wind and lots of rain. Between squalls Roy had to retie the reefing line that had untied itself during the night. Swell is up to around 6 feet because of the squalls, but it is comfortable. So far we've only covered about 100 miles towards the target. Where is that favorable current? Charging with the generator.

June 4th 14:00

Position N 20.38  W 83.03

Course 300  Wind 10 -15

Charging with the generator. Still haven't run the main engine at all. Had one last squall, then took out the reef in the main and  continue heading down wind and down waves. Nothing to see out here yet today except one freighter way in the distance and three brown boobies. Both of us napping on and off. Pondering how far to go. Tampa Bay is 94 hours away at this pace. Cuba looms above us still. Sure is a great big island. Isle of Pine about 50 miles north of us.

June 5th  7:30 

Course Due West

Daylight is good. Long night with a very late moonrise. We had to tack twice to avoid freighter traffic. Ok motion with about 6 foot swell and strong wind around 25 knots. Thank God it's behind us. Feeling pretty tired even with all the cat naps. It's amazing how fast you can fall asleep in this state and how weird your dreams are!

June 5 17:20

Position N 21.06  W 84.12

Decided to motor toward the West end of Cuba - Cabo San Antonio to see if we can get around before dark. That didn't work too well. Too slow. Sailing is actually faster as we continue West. Once we clear this point we can head North at last. Were able to tune into SSB NOAA weather. All looks good for a continued trip and it is comforting to have an updated weather forecast. Especially one that says, no tropical development is expected in the next 48 hours. Roy doesn't feel good. Looks like he is getting a cold to me. Glad I bought some cold drugs in Cayman. I'd given everything in our medical kit to Samuel in Haiti except the bare essentials. 

June 5  21:30

Position 

Course 049  Wind 10-15 

Finally the big turn NORTH. Not without drama though. Just when we were thinking of turning and the sun was sinking, a line brushed me on the top of the head. I was looking forward and realized that the main sail was stacked on top of the boom. We didn't hear it or feel it drop! The main halyard had chaffed through and parted. The mainsail came down with the one foot bit of rope left from the top. The rest of the line is somewhere inside the mast. Roy went forward and secured the sail to the boom. Now, we are continuing under Jib sail only. This set back hasn't hurt our speed as we sail along doing 5.5 knots. I guess we just keep going...for two days?

June 6th 8:30

Position N22.24  W 84.42

Course 049  Wind and seas same

Once Cabo San Antonio was south of us, the seas smoothed out to 1-2 feet. Calm like a bathtub back here. Had quite a time coming around as all the marine traffic seemed to show up just after dark. Lots of lights and ships MARPA'D on radar. At least it makes time go by faster in those dark dead hours before dawn. Decided to head for Key West. Roy not feeling good...sniffling and weak. Not sure what to do about the main sail, but don't feel it is a good idea to try to fix it now. Meanwhile the sailing with jib is going along and our speed is a respectable 5-6 knots.

June 6th  14:00

Decided to head for Dry Tortuga's, Garden Cay, FL. instead of Key West. Motoring now through "dead calm" conditions. No wind. Not a ripple on the water's surface. Hot and still and muggy and hazy. A long period languid almost imperceptible swell. Beautiful and weird. As per any trip on the water over 24 hours, you'll get every weather...and we sure have. 24 hours to Dry Tortuga. Roy looks better and sounds great with his new "whiskey voice"

June 7th.

Position: Anchored at Garden Cay, Dry Tortuga's National Park, Florida

Last 24 hours motoring in almost still water which is very unusual out on the ocean. The "Crudesky" freighter crossed our path and we got a close-up look at a giant freighter...about three miles away. Other than that sighting we saw nothing. I spent the day cleaning stainless steel and Roy spent the day feeling terrible from his cold. The first thing we saw on approach to Tortuga's was the tall lighthouse on Loggerhead Cay. It breaks the featureless horizon with it's tall black and white form. Soon we could make out the palm trees surrounding the base and then the pure white sand beach that is the island. Then the fort appears. Fort Jefferson is an immense brick fort that actually covers almost the whole island making it look like it is floating on the water. We anchored in protected water with five other sailboats behind the fort and were happy to swim and sleep.